Mexico Cooks!

Feria de Pan de Michoacán: The Michoacán State Bread Fair

Juan Manuel Ruíz manned the Panadería Martínez booth at the Michoacán bread festival.

Sometimes there's a big payoff for reading the whole morning newspaper.  Last Saturday morning my companion and I lingered over a last cup of coffee while we enjoyed La Voz de Michoacán, Morelia's excellent daily. "Wow!" jumped out of my mouth.  "There's a statewide bread fair going on downtown today.  Let's go!"  The article, in the financial section, mentioned that the good people of Michoacán consume a million pieces of artisanal bread per day, making the state one of the highest consumers in Mexico.

 
La Feria Estatal del Pan Tradicional took place in the shadow of colonial Templo San Francisco in Morelia.  Spanish Franciscans broke ground for the church in the early 16th Century.  The builders finished in 1610.

The festival, located in beautiful Morelia plaza San Francisco, presented more than 60 statewide bakeries and three separate bread-baking contests: one for artistic presentation, one for typical pan de sal (non-sweet breads such as bolillo, virote, and telera), and one for pan de muerto, or bread of the dead. 

I'm a big fan of Michoacán's traditional breads.  There are more than 1200 different types of artisanal bread made in the state.

Francisco (Paco) Martínez Rivera wheels in fresh bread to the booth 'El Buen Sabor'.

Traditionally, bread is delivered from the bakery to the store in canastos (large baskets) like these.  The center part of the basket (higher than the rest) fits on the deliveryman's head so he can either walk or bicycle along his route.  These baskets belong to José Sánchez y Familia of Panadería Sánchez in Queréndaro, Michoacán.

A particularly beautiful entry in the artistic bread competition.

This entry represents Morelia's famous aqueduct, built in the 4th quarter of the 18th Century.

This bread construction is Las Tarascas, one of Morelia's much-visited symbols.  The bronze statue, which shows indigenous Pur'hepecha women holding a tray of fruits, is near the aqueduct.  It represents Michoacán's fertility.

The Feria del Pan Tradicional de Michoacán takes place near the November dates of Día de los Muertos (Day of the Dead).  Pan de muerto is an important component of the celebrations and the fair offers delicious and beautiful examples of several types of large and small pan de muerto.

In the first picture, the loaves are crusted with white sugar.  In the second picture, the bakers used pink sugar.  In the third picture, the loaves have no sugar.  In the fourth picture, the loaves are split open and stuffed with pineapple filling, then dusted with confectioners' sugar.

Here's a recipe for traditional pan de muerto (updated a bit with a bread machine), if you'd like to try your hand for this November 1:

Pan de Muerto Tradicional

Ingredients
1 1/4 pounds white flour
1/2 oz yeast
4 oz sugar
4 oz lard (buy it fresh from a butcher or render it yourself)
3 whole eggs
7 egg yolks
Pinch of salt
2 Tbsp orange blossom water
3 Tbsp strong anise tea
1 Tbsp grated orange rind

Method
Set your bread machine to the dough cycle and put in 3 whole eggs and 7 egg yolks.

Make the anise tea.  Put 3 Tbsp of anise seeds in 6 Tbsp of water and microwave for 30 seconds.  If the seeds soak up all the water, add 3 more Tbsp of water and microwave for another 30 seconds.
Add all the ingredients to the bread machine.  Mix according to machine instructions. 

Take the dough out of the machine and nip off approximately 1/8th and set aside.  Shape the larger amount of dough into two flattened rounds and place on a greased baking sheet. 

Using the set-aside dough, shape two long 'femurs' and two small knobs.  Arrange the 'femurs' in the shape of an 'X' and place the two small knobs in the center of each loaf.  Use beaten egg yolk to glue the bones and knobs to the loaves.  Allow to rise for two hours in a warm place. 

Preheat the oven to 250 degrees.  Bake the loaves for 30 minutes or until light golden brown.  Remove from the oven and allow to cool on metal racks.  This is a spectacularly light and flavorful bread.  It does stale quickly, so invite some friends for coffee and enjoy your bread just after baking. 

Provecho! 
_______________________________________________________

In Michoacán, the most typical pan de muerto has the shape of a human figure.  Note the arms, crossed at about waist level.  José Sánchez and his family of Panadería Sánchez created these breads.  Cempasúchiles (a kind of marigold), wild orchids, bananas and breads like this one are often hung on large cemetery ofrendas made to honor the deceased.

Watch here in the weeks to come for another pictorial about the special little sugar figures made for the Day of the Dead.

Charros and Charrería: Mexico's Gentlemen Cowboys

El abanico (the fan), one of the most popular routines in the escaramuza competition.  All eight team members circle the ruedo (interior of the arena) with their horses equidistant from one another, in the form of a fan.

Charrería is the Mexican style of traditional Spanish horsemanship that developed in central and northern Mexico under the hacienda system. Following the breakup of the haciendas by the Mexican revolutionaries, the charros saw their traditions slipping away. They met in 1921 to form the Asociación Nacional de Charros to keep the charrería tradition alive. The most visible of these efforts was the establishment of the charreada style of rodeo.

Charrería is completely distinct from any other kind of event in the world. The arena is built to the specifications of the horsemanship competition  Built in the shape of a 'U', the lienzo charro (events ring) has all the seating at the closed end of the 'U' and space for the events within the open end. 

A charreada is held within a marked-off area of an arena with a lane 12 meters wide by 60 meters long leading into a circle 40 meters in diameter. Charreada is highly ritualized and follows a particular sequence of events. The participants must wear traditional charro clothing while performing. Preceding the events is an opening ceremony in which the organizations and participants parade into the arena on horseback, usually accompanied by a band playing "The Zacatecas March".

The gran desfile (opening parade) on October 14 at the Campeonato Nacional de Charrería 2007 (National Charro Championships 2007) being held in Morelia, Michoacán from October 10 through October 28. 

There are nine separate suertes (tests of horsemanship) in a full charreada event.  Each test is based on a skill needed to perform normal ranch work.

Cala de Caballo (test of the horse): The charro puts his horse though various commands to demonstrate his ability and the horse's training.

Piales en Lienzo or Piales (arena roping): A horseman must throw a lariat out, let a wild horse (or bull, or steer) run through the loop, catching it by the hind legs within three tries—all without watching the animal as it comes up behind him.

Colas en Lienzo or Coleadera (arena bull tailing): Steer wrestling, also known as bull dogging, is a rodeo event that features a steer and two mounted cowboys, along with a number of supporting characters. The steers are moved through narrow pathways leading to a chute with spring loaded doors. A 10 foot rope is fastened around the steer's neck which is used to ensure that the steer gets a head start. On one side of the chute is the hazer whose job is to ride parallel with the steer and ensure it runs in a straight line. The charro grabs the steer's tail as the animal darts from the chute, twisting the tail to take the steer down onto the ground.   

Jineteo de Toro (bull riding): Bull riding is a rodeo sport that involves a rider getting on a 1,000 and 2,500 pound bull which is held in a small enclosure called a bucking chute. The rider tightly fastens one hand to the bull with a long woven leather rope. When the rider says he is ready, the gate of the bucking chute is opened and the bull bursts out and attempts to throw or buck off the rider.

The terna.  The charros have the bull subdued by the neck and rear legs and are about to tie all four feet together.

Terna (trial): A team roping event in which three charros attempt to rope a bull; one by its neck, one by its hind legs, and the last then ties its feet together; all within eight minutes.

Jineteo de Yegua (bareback riding on an unbroken mare): Bronco riding in Mexico, either as saddle bronco or bareback bronco, involves a rider getting on an untamed horse or bronco, weighing between 800 and 1,500 pounds.  In a charreada, these horses are all mares.  In the bucking chute the rider tightly grips a handle which is strapped to the horse. When the rider says he is ready, the gate of the bucking chute is opened and the horse bursts out and attempts to throw or buck off the rider.

Mangana (a pie) or Piales (roping on foot): A charro on foot attempts to rope a wild mare by its front legs, bringing it down.

The floreo (exhibition of roping techniques) is part of the mangana a pie y a caballo.  The charro twirls the rope in fancy patterns while he waits--without watching--for the mare to circle the ring a a full-out gallop.

Mangana (a caballo) (roping from horseback): A charro on horseback attempts to rope a wild mare by her front legs--first by one foreleg, then by two--bringing it down.

Paso de la Muerte (pass of death) The competitor gallops bareback on his own horse next to an unbroken mare. With the help of three mounted ring assistants working to keep the mare in place, he attempts to leap from his own horse to the bare back of a wild horse and then grasp the mane and ride it until it stops.

The individual suertes sound quite simple, but in reality every one is extremely complicated.  A detailed description of the hundreds of rules and regulations of charrería is here.  There is a regulation and a rule for everything from the kind of shirt and tie a charro must wear in a competition to the infractions for using a plastic rope.  The website is entirely in Spanish, but a glance at page upon page of rules will give you some insight into the complexity of the Mexican national sport.

Eight escaramuza teammates ride an intricately choreographed pattern.  Remember that the young women are riding sidesaddle!  Their costumes are as colorful as their routines.

In addition to the men's events, there is also an event for women known as escaramuza (skirmish). During this event, teams of eight women dressed in 19th Century charra clothing (and riding side saddle) perform a variety of precision riding techniques while riding at break-neck speeds. The escaramuza is usually featured between the coleadera and the jineteo de toros.  Escaramuza is the most colorful and exciting part of the charreada, although the men's final suerte, paso de la muerte usually has my heart in my throat.

No Mexican sporting event is complete without tequila.  Vendors ply the aisles selling straight shots, as mixed drinks, or by the bottle.

My companion and I were thrilled to attend the Campeonato Nacional de Charrería 2007 on Sunday night, October 14.  It was her first charro competition, but certainly not her, or my, last.

Leave the Driving to Them: Long Distance Bus Travel in Mexico

Santo Domingo Church in Oaxaca, Oaxaca.

Many expatriates living in Mexico have a strong desire to see parts of the country both near and far from their homes. We hear tempting stories about the beauties of Oaxaca, the high desert countryside near San Miguel de Allende, lovely Zacatecas (see last week's post!), and the glories of colonial Morelia. We're left with our mouths watering to see all these places—and a hundred more—and then we realize that driving in Mexico is not always easy. Toll roads are expensive, traveling the free roads seems to take forever, and many of us don't know how to read the road signs—and never mind understanding when someone give us directions! There is a solution, and it's not an option most of us would think of in the United States or Canada: the long distance bus.

Bus travel in Mexico is a lot better than what some folks imagine. Long distance bus service is far better than the stereotypical chicken bus, loaded to the gills with more passengers than could possibly be safe. We envision every woman with a baby on her lap and another clinging to her skirt and each man carrying bags and bundles of everything from groceries to live chickens.

I must say that in all my years here in Mexico, the only person with live chickens I ever saw on a bus was me: I bought a dozen baby chicks when I first lived in Tijuana and brought them home in a cake box on the city bus. To all the passengers' great amusement, their peep-peep-peeping sounded loud and clear through the vent holes I'd poked in the box.

Bus travel has traditionally been the choice for Mexican travel. It's usually convenient, very inexpensive compared to air or automobile travel, and compared to long distance bus experiences in the United States or Canada, quite luxurious.

Two friends and I recently spent several days in Mexico City. We took the ETN (Enlaces Terrestres Nacionales) bus from Guadalajara and were extremely pleased with the service. Here's a brief comparison of our bus trip time and cost versus a similar trip by plane.

ETN Round Trip by Bus	Mexicana Round Trip by Air
Price: $1090 pesos*	Price: $3800 pesos*
Check in Guadalajara Bus Terminal: 9:45 AM	Check in Guadalajara Airport: 8:00 AM
Depart: 10:15 AM	Depart: 10:00 AM
Arrive Mexico City: 4:45 PM	Arrive Mexico City: 11:10 AM
Taxi to Accomodations: $100 pesos	Taxi to Accomodations: $200 pesos

*The peso exchange rate as of this writing was 11.3 pesos per dollar. Note: bus fares are subject to change without notice.

Not only is the bus terminal more comfortable than the airport, the bus is far more comfortable than the plane. The executive-class bus has only 24 seats. Each seat has a leg rest that allows the passenger to stretch out almost full length. For less than one-third the cost of the plane we traveled in luxurious comfort.

We weren't troubled by the longer travel time on the bus, as we were able to see close-up the natural beauty of the states of Jalisco, Michoacán, and Mexico prior to arriving in Mexico City. We enjoyed a terrific movie—Bend It Like Beckham—in English. We socialized with a marvelous group of women who were going to Mexico City for a high-society bridal shower. Had we needed it, there was a bathroom on the bus, which traveled non-stop all the way.

We lunched on the sandwich, cookie, and soft drink that the bus company included in the price of each ticket; coffee service was available at no extra charge. We napped a bit, snacked on some fruit and cookies we'd brought along, and then we were thrilled by the late afternoon sights and sounds of Mexico City as we drove into and through the city.

At the Mexico City western bus terminal, we quickly claimed our baggage and prepaid for a taxi at the booth inside the terminal. We were soon deposited at our destination in the southwestern part of the city.  After a quick pause to freshen up, we were ready for an evening on the town.

The money we saved on travel transportation paid for a huge portion of the fun we had while in the city.

La Central Camionera Nueva
(The Guadalajara long distance bus terminal)

La central camionera nueva (the Guadalajara long distance bus terminal) is actually located in Tonalá, at the southeast edge of the city. It's a huge complex. There are seven and one-half individual módulos (terminal buildings). Each terminal building is host to the arrival and departure of one or several different bus lines.

TIP: It's crucial to know your departure building number, and equally crucial to know where to meet an arrival. If you don't have the building information, you will not be able to locate your bus.

The terminals handle the bus lines as follows:

Módulo (Terminal)	Bus Lines
Módulo 1	Primera Plus, Flecha Amarilla, 6 other small bus lines
Módulo 1 1/2	Transportes Autobuses del Pacífico (TAP)
Módulo 2	ETN, La Linea Plus, Transportes Autobuses del Pacífico (TAP), Omnibús de México, Autobús del Occidente, Sur de Jalisco
Módulo 3	Elite, Turistar Ejecutivo, Futura, Norte de Sonora (TNS)
Módulo 4	Pacífico, Elite, Norte de Sonora (TNS)
Módulo 5	Oriente, Linea Azul, Rojo de los Altos
Módulo 6	Transportes Autobuses del Pacífico (TAP), ETN, Omnibús de México, Autobuses Americanos
Módulo 7	Transportes Chihuahuenses, Estrella Blanca, De Los Altos, Turistar Ejecutivo, ETN

Turistar Ejecutivo

It's quite inexpensive to take the bus from Guadalajara to the nearest cities along the Mexican border with Texas. The most luxurious bus, Turistar Ejecutivo, costs approximately $1200 pesos (approximately $100 U.S.) one way to Nuevo Laredo, Mexico (across the border from Laredo, TX). It costs $950 pesos (approximately $85 U.S.) one way to Reynosa, Mexico (across the border from McAllen, Texas). The bus has 24 seats, two across along one side and single seats along the other side. Two drivers share driving duties. Buses leave the Tonalá terminal at 6 PM and at 7 PM every evening, arriving in either Nuevo Laredo or Reynosa approximately 14 hours later. The bus has air conditioning, bathrooms, luggage check-in service, and videos on board.

Our friend JoAnne, a self-described princess, recently chose Turistar Ejecutivo for a trip to the border. She describes the Mexican side of her trip in glowing terms.

            "This story has to start by telling you upfront that the information is coming from a person                    who is as close to being a princess as a commoner can be. Picky is my middle name. My decision
             to travel north by bus stunned all my friends, who were dying to hear whether I would survive
            or not. They were betting not. Earlier, my retirement to Mexico had those who know me well
            shaking their heads in disbelief, so you can see that what is being reported here is from the
            perspective of a truly spoiled and whiny gringa.

"My husband and I had heard great things about bus service in Mexico. With nothing but time on our hands, we decided to give it a try—we'd go by bus to the border. We had been told that the Turistar Ejecutivo luxury class bus was the top of the line, so we took our chances, drove up to the bus station, and purchased our tickets. During the remaining days until our departure, I was biting my carefully manicured fingernails to the quick just thinking about the possibilities for disaster; the what-ifs were driving me crazy.

"As we boarded the early-evening bus we were given a choice of soft drinks and a package of cookies. The sparkling clean bus was completely booked. There are two seats on one side of the bus and a single seat on the other side, 24 seats in all.

"The seats are the same size as those in first class on a commercial airline and are complete with seatbelts. Overhead video screens held the promise of entertainment during the night. We were able to put our seat backs into a fully reclining position. There was a full leg rest that popped forward from the seat back in front of us so we could be as horizontal as possible. Such comfort for us as we hit the road to the north of Mexico!

"We have driven to the border several times. The trip is stressful and we always pray that our car does not break down, that we have no flat tires, and that all goes well as we drive the miles and miles of often deserted stretches of highway. On our bus trip, as we approached the first toll booth I realized just how relaxing it was to have someone else figuring out the turns and the tolls. I snuggled deeper into my roomy seat and reflected on the pure pleasure of not having the strain of being on the road in Mexico.

"We had packed sandwiches and at around 7 PM we enjoyed munching while watching a movie, which to our surprise was in English with Spanish subtitles. Shortly after the first film they showed another, which was also in English.

"By this time I had to make my first trip to the restroom. The facilities weren't great, but they weren't as bad as some gas stations I have been in. It's really important to be steady on your feet, as the curves and uneven roads make navigating to the back of the bus a little bit difficult. I worked my way back by hanging onto the seatbacks of our fellow travelers. A word to the wise: don't wait to go till it's almost too late—you don't want a sudden jolt or sway of the bus to cause you to make a puddle before you reach the WC.

"A third movie was shown; this time it was in Spanish and had no subtitles. That was no problem as I was dozing off anyway.

"At 11 PM we stopped somewhere north of Zacatecas and were able to stretch our legs and use a non-moving bathroom. We climbed back onto the bus and made another stop at around 4:30 AM in Monterrey. At 7 AM we pulled into the station at Nuevo Laredo, Mexico, just across the border from Laredo, Texas. The trip to the border was accomplished with very few complaints from the princess.

"After we crossed the border, we boarded a Greyhound bus to Austin. That's where the fun of the trip ended. There is no comparison between the Turistar Ejecutivo buses in Mexico and the shabby and dirty buses in the U.S. The princess immediately became disenchanted with bus travel on the United States side of the border. Picky is definitely not Greyhound's middle name.

"The return trip on the Mexican bus was pleasant and without any hassle. I am currently researching the possibility of traveling by Mexican bus to McAllen, TX, and then flying on Southwest Airlines to Austin or Houston, which are ordinarily my two U.S. destinations.

"If you want to go to the border for shopping, to visit friends or for medical reasons, by all means go by bus. We were thrilled with the Turistar Ejecutivo service and will travel with them again. We'll simply avoid any travel by bus in the U.S. as it is exactly what we have always imagined."

"This trip really made me wonder about priorities in the United States. Mexico, a third world country, has certainly surpassed the U.S. in long distance bus travel."

I have frequently taken the Turistar Ejecutivo bus to McAllen, TX, and agree wholeheartedly with JoAnne's assessment of the line's services. I've also taken other bus lines from the border cities back to Guadalajara (when Turistar was sold out) and believe that Turistar is indeed the cream of the crop. Some folks think that it's best to travel to the border on Wednesdays, as the midweek bus is usually carrying fewer passengers than it does closer to the weekend.

Autobuses Americanos
If you prefer to take a bus that leaves Guadalajara and travels all the way to destinations within the United States, take Autobuses Americanos from Módulo 6. The line is not as luxurious as Turistar, but it will take you directly to Laredo (14 hours), San Antonio (19 hours), Houston (21 hours), Dallas, or El Paso in Texas. It also runs to Kansas City (37 hours), to Chicago (44 hours), to Denver, Phoenix, Los Angeles, and Albuquerque. The line connects with Greyhound service to Atlanta, destinations in Florida, and both North and South Carolina.

The bus carries 44 passengers and doesn't offer the little extras like the soft drinks and cookies. The seats are smaller and don't recline as much as the Turistar seats do and the foot rests aren't full leg supports. While Autobuses Americanos are not the bottom of the heap, they are probably not for the truly picky.

Should you decide to travel via Autobuses Americanos, be advised that you and all of your luggage will have to leave the bus at the U.S. Customs station at the border. Once the bus is examined and you and your luggage have cleared customs, you will re-board the same bus to continue your journey in the United States.

Getting Around By Bus in Mexico

What about bus travel within Mexico? There are so many wonderful cities and towns to visit in this country, and there is easy and inexpensive bus access to most of them. Many Mexican destinations are accessible directly from Guadalajara; some, particularly in the far south of Mexico, require a change of bus in Mexico City.

Bus Line	Destination	One Way Cost*	Travel Time	Departures
ETN Módulo #6	San Miguel de Allende	$550 pesos	Approx. 5 hours	9 AM, 3:15 PM
ETN Módulo #6	Morelia	$299 pesos	Approx 4 hours	7:30 AM, 9:20 AM, 11:40 AM, 1:30 PM, 4:30
ETN Módulo #6	Puerto Vallarta	$430 pesos	Approx. 5 hours	12:30 AM, 6:30 AM, 8:45 AM, 10: 30 AM, 12:30 PM, 2:30 PM, 6:30 PM, 11:30 PM daily
ETN Módulo #6	Mexico City	$575 pesos	Approx. 7 hours	Frequent departures every day
Elite Módulo #7 01-33-3679-0404	Zacatecas	$255 pesos	Approx. 5 hours	Call for information
Futura Módulo #7 01-33-3679-0404	Puerto Vallarta	$335 pesos	Approx. 5 hours	Call for information
Elite Módulo #7 01-33-3679-0404	Mazatlán	$340 pesos	Approx. 4 hours	Call for information
Transportes Chihuahuenses Módulo #7	Puebla	$600 pesos	Approx. 10 hours	10:15 PM daily

*The peso exchange rate as of this writing was 11.3 pesos per dollar. Note: bus fares are subject to change without notice.

ETN,  Elite, and Futura offer excellent and comfortable service within Mexico. ETN advertises itself as la linea más cómoda (the most comfortable line). My long years of experience traveling with them make me agree that indeed they are exceptionally comfortable.

ETN takes credit cards and will make reservations for you over the phone.  Tickets are also available at many travel agencies in Mexico.

These long distance buses within Mexico normally depart punctually to the minute and offer lots of little extras—bathroom on board, soft drinks, water, coffee, sometimes a sandwich and a cookie. Most other lines will make a seat reservation by telephone but require you to come to the bus station to pay in person at least 24 hours prior to your trip.

There are many other bus lines which travel to other destinations in Mexico, some to places less frequented by foreigners. Most of these other domestic lines are not nearly as luxurious as either Turistar or ETN, but they will definitely get you where you want to go.

I've often traveled on the Primera Plus line (Módulo #1) and recommend it highly for travel to Uruapan, Guanajuato, and other wonderful locations. La Linea Plus (Módulo #2) also travels to Uruapan, Morelia, and many other destinations.

Long distance bus travel in Mexico is a relaxing and stress free way to get around. Riding the bus gives you the opportunity to see the countryside along the way and have rich experiences of real Mexican life.

Next time you decide to travel, you might just see one of us on your bus.

Zacatecas, Colonial Jewel in the Desert

The Metropolitan Cathedral in Zacatecas.

From the time I arrived with my friend Clara to meet Javier in this state capital city of 125,000 until the moment she and I reluctantly drove out of town, we were delighted by everything we experienced in Zacatecas. Three days were not nearly enough time to really savor its Colonial pleasures. The simple 4-hour drive northeast from Guadalajara to Zacatecas makes this trip one that we can repeat often—and we certainly want to go again soon.

Founded in 1546, Zacatecas is a gorgeous Spanish-colonial city filled with lively cultural activities. The spotless streets paved with lajas (flat square cobblestones) twist and turn enticingly through the hilly city, frequently ending at charming green pocket-size parks. The climate is pleasant and the residents are helpful and welcoming. Street markets, color and music abound and it seems as if there are art galleries and museums on every corner. The rich silver mining history of the area oozes from every architecturally splendid building.

In 1994, UNESCO (the United Nations Educational, Scientific, and Cultural Organization), named Zacatecas a Cultural Patrimony of Mankind site due to its architecture. The designation is richly deserved. The elaborately carved pink cantera (quarry stone) facades of churches and other buildings, the intricate hand-wrought ironwork on balconies, door, and windows and the brilliantly colored flowers blooming in pots and gardens throughout the city make Zacatecas a visual feast.

The vibrant city of Zacatecas offers constant festivals of art, music, film, and dance. We were there during an all-French film festival which coincided with a classical music festival. In three short days, the three of us attended a concert by the Zacatecas State band, a free classical guitar concert performed by an internationally-acclaimed soloist, and a book fair at a gorgeous Art Deco period theater.

Friends had told us to take good walking shoes to Zacatecas. We were glad we followed their advice, because for three days we were up and down hilly cobbled streets, walking the sets of stairs that lead from one level to another level in this city of fascinating nooks and crannies.

Detail of one carved column of the Cathedral.

We were glad we packed sweaters, too.  It's chilly in Zacatecas on winter nights, although it's warm and dry in the summer. Here in the heartland of Mexico, dress is much more conservative than in the coastal areas often frequented by foreigners. We quickly noticed that the tourists in Zacatecas were chiefly Mexicans. Very little English is spoken in museums, on the streets or in restaurants; we were glad that all of us are fluent Spanish-speakers.

Zacatecas is approximately 8,000 feet above sea level in the high desert region of Mexico, so some tourists experience shortness of breath at first. It's good to be initially wary of alcohol consumption. At this altitude, alcohol hits hard until folks become accustomed to the thin air.

Hotels and restaurants range from the humble to the luxurious.  There are plenty to choose from in every price range, from youth hostels to the most elegant of digs. The most famous local hotel is the Quinta Real Zacatecas. Architecturally stunning, this luxury hotel and its surroundings are a must-see. Where else can you stay in a hotel that lies alongside a 16th Century aqueduct and incorporates the oldest bull ring in North America into its facility?

The interior of the hotel is truly impressive. Circling the bull ring, hallways are boldly decorated and filled with a profusion of potted plants and shrubs. You'll find elegant boutiques around the perimeter, with a prime spot reserved for a sophisticated restaurant.

Much as we loved the Quinta Real, my friends and I opted for convenience and economy and stayed at the Hotel Posada Tolosa, located just two blocks from the cathedral in the heart of the historic center. Rooms here with two double beds are comfortably large and cost approximately $60 USD per night. The room rate includes enclosed secure parking. However, the hotel has no elevator and the stairs to the rooms are steep.

Zacatecas has a great system of inexpensive public transportation: buses, combis (VW bus-style taxis which follow a defined route) and private taxis. Any of these vehicles can take tourists to outlying areas of interest. There's plenty of on-street parking if you're visiting in a car, but the best way to see the historic center of the city is on foot. All of the usual tourist haunts are easy walking distance from the Cathedral, the heart of the city.

La Bufa, which means the wineskin, is the name of the highest hill overlooking the historic center of Zacatecas. Aptly named for its distinct shape, the hill is the terminus of a fantastic teleférico (cable rail) ride that lifts off near the El Edén mine entrance to sway its way higher and higher over the city. The views are fantastic and at the top there is a museum devoted to the Mexican revolution, complete with larger-than-life-size statues of Francisco 'Pancho' Villa and numerous other heroes and generals.

Every day of our stay we visited one of the many large museums and galleries for which Zacatecas is known. 

The Pedro Coronel Museum is named for one of the foremost Mexican painters and sculptors of the 20th Century, and a zacatecano. The massive and eclectic art collection of this older Coronel brother (1923-1985), is housed in a huge colonial building which has been at various times in its history a Jesuit college, a Dominican convent, early military headquarters, and a jail. Room leads to room, and each is filled with treasures.

Pavana para una mujer embarazada, Pedro Coronel, 1959, oil on canvas, 184 x 202 cm. Private collection.

Coronel's personal eclectic collection of Twentieth Century art is the focus of the museum. Every modern artist from Braque to Miró to Picasso is represented. Most were Coronel's friends and contemporaries. We devoured the glorious paintings. We spent only a morning here; to give this museum its due, several mornings would be better.

The Rafael Coronel Museum, built in 1567 as a Franciscan convent, is a superb example of colonial architecture at its finest. At each turn in the building and everywhere on the grounds I found a breathtaking opportunity to use my camera. The museum houses Rafael Coronel's collection of nearly 5,000 Mexican masks once used in dances and traditional ceremonies. We marveled at the variety, the materials, and the intricate artistry of the masks. Many of these masks were part of Diego Rivera's collection and were inherited by his daughter, who married Rafael Coronel.

My favorite section of the museum was the magical collection of 19th Century Mexican puppets. The child in me adores antique dolls, puppets, and other old toys.

The Francisco Goitia Museum is housed in the state governor's former mansion, located a longish walk or short cab ride from the historic center of the city. Two huge rooms of the museum house works by Zacatecas artists Julio Ruelas, Pedro and Rafael Coronel, Manuel Felguérez and others. Another illustrious zacatecano, Francisco Goitia (1882-1960) has been compared to the best European painters. Several downstairs rooms are devoted to Goitia's haunting paintings. Up-and-coming younger Mexican artists are often invited to exhibit in the second floor rooms.

When we visited the museum, two of the large upstairs rooms were devoted to an exhibit of works by the best-known Mexican artists of the first half of the 20th Century, including Diego Rivera, Rufino Tamayo, and David Siquieros. This exhibit was on loan from the Museo de Arte Moderno in Mexico City.

To refuel for our next round of adventures, we happily hunted for—and found—great food. We ate several meals at a landmark Zacatecas restaurant, the Café Nevería Acropolis. It's across the street from the cathedral.

Teatro Calderón at night--the Zacatecas State Band is playing in the foreground.

This place bustles! From early morning till late at night, the staff hops to keep up with the hordes of locals and tourists who bring their need for sustenance to the café. Is it a Greek ice cream parlor? Is it a Mexican restaurant/coffee shop? You be the judge. Sit in a booth by the long windows on either side of the restaurant and watch the town stroll by as you dine. Don't miss the art on the restaurant walls—original works by famous clients cover every available space.

The menu is loaded with great Mexican breakfast, lunch and dinner specialties plus a lengthy selection of pastries, cakes, pies, and ice creams. I loved the cafe con leche (expresso coffee and hot milk). The fresh fruit salad with homemade yoghurt was delicious, as was the sopa azteca, a spicy tomato-based broth loaded with fried tortilla strips, chunks of ripe avocado, and thick cream topping. My companions raved about their dinners. Clara chose enchiladas with cheese and chicken. Javier ordered the chilaquiles (lightly fried tortilla strips, chicken, and onions basted in a red salsa picante and topped with cream and a fried egg.) Both their offerings came with rice, beans, and fresh hot tortillas. The prices were sure right! For much less than $10 US per person we stoked our furnaces for another night of festivities.

We ate one lunch at Doña Julia's gorditas place, located about a block and a half from the cathedral. Doña Julia is a real person as well as a local institution. She has three or four tiny gorditas restaurants in Zacatecas and is the sponsor of an important athletic club. We loved the gorditas—they're a regional specialty of Zacatecas. Thick flour tortillas—cooked, split and stuffed with a variety of savory treats—make an excellent breakfast or lunch. Try the bean with cheese, or the pork, or the chicken. They're small—you can eat several. The skinny man at the next table ate nine—we counted!

For a more formal meal, try the restaurant at the Hotel Quinta Real or walk two blocks from the cathedral to Mi México or venture to the Mesón de Jobita. Zacatecas is loaded with options for excellent food.

In Zacatecas, dancing in the streets is strongly encouraged. Every night we followed the callejonadas, troupes of meandering street musicians who wander the city with an entourage. Just before sundown every evening, a man with a burro and a group of musicians appeared in front of our hotel. The bands usually consisted of a couple of trumpets, a trombone, a saxophone and one or two drums. A few people gathered around to listen, and then a few more. Javier noticed that everyone had a tiny cup on a string around his or her neck—and then suddenly we each had one too!

When the crowd was large enough, the musicians began strolling up a callejón (alleyway) playing razzmatazz music. Clara, Javier and I followed the crowd up the narrow streets until we reached a charming tiny plaza. The band struck up a dance tune, everyone danced with everyone else and the fellow with the burro filled all of our little cups with aguamiel (a local tequila-like drink).

This little burro carries clay jugs of aguamiel, ready for the callejonadas.

That little burro was a four-legged bar! After we all had a little aguamiel and a little dance time, the band led us around a corner and up another alleyway, playing music all the way. A bit of dancing, a tad more aguamiel, some more marching along—until suddenly a couple of hours later our heads spun from drink and dance and our cheeks ached from laughter.

The callejonadas are just the icing on the fabulous cake that is Zacatecas. Our three-day visit wasn't nearly long enough to see and do all that we wanted. There is a variety of side trips that we have in mind for our next journey: the town of Guadalupe to see the museum of early colonial religious art, the town of Jerez and the 13th Century ruins at La Quemada.

It won't be long until I go back to Zacatecas.  Let's all go!