The mid-autumn landscape is lovely along the road to Cuanajo, Michoacán. Sun-struck shocks of corn stand out against the patchwork of fields and mountains.
During September and October, expanses of mirasoles (wild cosmos) grace every open field.
The MIchoacán hillside near Pátzcuaro cradles Cuanajo, an entirely Purhépecha town of about 12,000 souls. The Purhépecha are the largest group of indigenous people in Michoacán. Nearly 500 years ago, when the Spaniards first traveled through this part of Mexico, the settlement lay some two kilometers south of its current location. The Purhépecha covered their yácatas (pyramids) with earth to prevent their takeover by the conquistadores and the town moved north.
The Casa de Artesanías (Artisans' Center) in Cuanajo is the home of artisan-carved wood furniture, textiles, and decorative items.
Several weeks ago, Mexico Cooks! had an opportunity to talk with Emilio García Zirangua, the head of government in Cuanajo. Sr. García is deeply concerned about the future of centuries-old wood crafting in his town. "The Purhépecha of Cuanajo began carving wood when Don Vasco de Quiroga, the first bishop of Michoacán, brought Spanish artisans to teach us their methods. Now, we don't know what our future holds. So much wood has been taken from our mountains, legally and illegally, and even though the government makes promises about reforestation, we don't see the results of those promises."
Furniture factories are often just one small room.
"Cuanajo is part of the municipio (similar to a county in the United States) of Pátzcuaro. Actually, next to Pátzcuaro, we're the largest town in the municipio. We're working on gaining standing as a separate municipio because our needs here are so different from Pátzcuaro's needs. Our town is very rural, not so modern as that town."
Colorful Mexican themes decorate this queen-size hand-carved and hand-painted headboard. You'll find this one or others that are similar at Fábrica de Muebles Buenos Aires, at the corner of Guadalupe Victoria and Lázaro Cárdenas in Cuanajo.
Soft pastels decorate hand-carved larger than life size alcatraces (calla lilies) on this double bed headboard. It was also made at Fábrica de Muebles Buenos Aires.
Sr. García continued, "Not too many years ago, everyone in Cuanajo spoke Purhépecha. Today, few of the young people bother to learn the language. It's a huge loss. In that way, it seems as if our heritage is disappearing. What will be the next to go?"
One corner detail of a finely carved and painted dish cupboard from Cuanajo.
"At least we still take pride in our heritage of working with wood. Nearly everyone here knows wood carving and painting, and most of us earn our living from those things. We have an international reputation for making beautiful furniture and decorative items for the home."
This gorgeous bench from Cuanajo, hand-carved and hand-painted with images of Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera, is for sale at the Casa de Artesanía, Morelia.
This Cuanajo chair, one of a set of four painted with images of figures from the 1810 Mexican revolution, is also for sale at the Casa de Artesanía, Morelia.
This is just one detailed scene from a Cuanajo-made table top.
Cuanajo is substantially off the beaten tourist track but well worth the time and effort to get there. If you're looking for highly detailed painted furniture or other home decoration, it's the best place in Michoacán to find what you want. Please contact Mexico Cooks! if you'd like a guided tour.
Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: http://mexicocooks.typepad.com/mexico_cooks/2008/05/rinconcitos-esc.html
Wow, these are very unique furniture.So simple yet sophisticated because of the art work added to it.
Posted by: Barn Plans | October 04, 2010 at 01:56 AM
I am awstruck by the beautiful photos....very, very nice...
happy holidays from indiana, USA mtw
Posted by: MikeTheWaiterDotCom | November 28, 2008 at 01:56 PM
Is Cuanajo also the town where ornately carved furniture (beds, trasteros, etc.) is carved and NOT painted? Not a big fan of the painted furniture, but I really love the more natural look of the wood. Is that done somewhere else in Michoacán or is it not done anymore at all?
Jody, some unpainted furniture is also from Cuanajo, although it's made in several other towns as well. Maybe you're thinking of muebles rústicos, which are made all over the country. I've seen wonderful pieces, for example, in both Tlaquepaque and Tonalá, Jalisco.
Posted by: Jody | November 23, 2008 at 09:29 AM
Trivia, which I believe to be true based on the source (a well educated mexican music aficionado and friend). When the explorer Humboldt passed through this part of Mexico he heard some music of the Purhépecha. He liked it and wrote it down as best he could. When he returned to Germany he gave it to his friend Beethoven and it is now a small part of the 7th symphony. I don't know how to describe it, but it is a very familar part.
Posted by: muycontento | November 22, 2008 at 08:26 PM
I will definitely take the bench with Frida Kahlo and Diego. Wow,these are beautiful. Very creative. Thx for sharing. Have a great Thanksgiving.
Posted by: glorv1 | November 22, 2008 at 11:21 AM
Some great examples of how the practical can be artistic and still retain its practicality. I have an artist friend who specializes in art pieces based on furniture, but the pieces are not usable as the table or chair they resemble. I would be tempted, though, to tell people they had to take off their clothes to sit on the Frida-Diego bench. I suspect both Frida and Diego would appreciate the request.
Posted by: Steve Cotton | November 22, 2008 at 11:20 AM