Mexican Cooking: What Do YOU Call It?

Tortita de calabacita en caldillo (home-made zucchini/cheese croquette in thin tomato sauce).

More and more people who want to experience "real"Mexican food are asking about the availability of authentic Mexican meals outside Mexico. Bloggers and posters on food-oriented websites have vociferously definite opinions on what constitutes authenticity. Writers' claims range from the uninformed (the fajitas at such-and-such a restaurant are totally authentic, just like in Mexico) to the ridiculous (Mexican cooks in Mexico can't get good ingredients, so Mexican meals prepared in the United States are superior).

 

Much of what I read about authentic Mexican cooking reminds me of that old story of the blind men and the elephant. "Oh," says the first, running his hands up and down the elephant's leg, "an elephant is exactly like a tree."  "Aha," says the second, stroking the elephant's trunk, "the elephant is precisely like a hose."  And so forth. If you haven't experienced what most posters persist in calling "authentic Mexican", then there's no way to compare any restaurant in the United States with anything that is prepared or served in Mexico. You're simply spinning your wheels.

Pig head for making pozole (pork and hominy stew) at home.

It's my considered opinion that there is no such thing as one definition of authentic Mexican. Wait, before you start hopping up and down to refute that, consider that "authentic" is generally what you were raised to appreciate. Your mother's pot roast is authentic, but so is my mother's. Your aunt's tuna salad is the real deal, but so is my aunt's, and they're not the least bit similar.

The descriptor I've come to use for many dishes is 'traditional'. We can even argue about  that adjective, but it serves to describe the traditional dish of--oh, say carne de puerco en chile verde--as served in the North of Mexico, in the Central Highlands, or in the Yucatán. There may be big variations among the preparations of this dish, but each preparation is traditional and each is authentic in its region.

I think that in order to understand the cuisines of Mexico, we have to give up arguing about authenticity and concentrate on the reality of certain dishes.

Chiles en nogada (stuffed chiles in walnut sauce), a traditional dish for the fall season in Mexico.

Traditional Mexican cooking is not a hit-or-miss let's-make-something-for-dinner proposition based on "let's see what we have in the despensa (pantry)." Traditional Mexican cooking is as complicated and precise as traditional French cooking, with just as many hide-bound conventions as French cuisine imposes. You can't just throw some chiles and a glob of chocolate into a sauce and call it mole. You can't simply decide to call something Mexican salsa when it's not. There are specific recipes to follow, specific flavors and textures to expect, and specific results to attain. Yes, some liberties are taken, particularly in Mexico's new alta cocina (haute cuisine) and fusion restaurants, but even those liberties are based on specific traditional recipes.

In recent readings of food-oriented websites, I've noticed questions about what ingredients are available in Mexico. The posts have gone on to ask whether or not those ingredients are up to snuff when compared with what's available in what the writer surmises to be more sophisticated food sources such as the United States.

Surprise, surprise: most readily available fresh foods in Mexico's markets are even better than similar ingredients you find outside Mexico. Foreign chefs who tour with me to visit Mexico's stunning produce markets are inevitably astonished to see that what is grown for the ordinary home-cook user is fresher, more flavorful, more attractive, and much less costly than similar ingredients available in the United States.

Calabaza en tacha, cooking at home with Mexico Cooks!.

It's the same with most meats: pork and chicken are head and shoulders above what you find in North of the Border meat markets. Fish and seafood are from-the-sea fresh and distributed within just a few hours of any of Mexico's coasts.

Nevertheless, Mexican restaurants in the United States make do with the less-than-superior ingredients found outside Mexico. In fact, some downright delicious traditional Mexican meals can be had in some North of the Border Mexican restaurants. Those restaurants are hard to find, though, because in the States, most of what has come to be known as Mexican cooking is actually Tex-Mex cooking. There's nothing wrong with Tex-Mex cooking, nothing at all. It's just not traditional Mexican cooking.  Tex-Mex is great food from a particular region of the United States. Some of it is adapted from Mexican cooking and some is the invention of early Texas settlers. Some innovations are adapted from both of those points of origin.  Fajitas, ubiquitous on Mexican restaurant menus all over the United States, are a typical Tex-Mex invention.  Now available in Mexico's restaurants, fajitas are offered to the tourist trade as proto-typically authentic. 

Caldo de pollo (traditional Mexican chicken soup), straight from the Mexico Cooks! home kitchen.

You need to know that the best of Mexico's cuisines is not found in restaurants. It comes straight from somebody's mama's kitchen. Clearly not all Mexicans are good cooks, just as not all Chinese are good cooks, not all Italians are good cooks, and so forth. But the most traditional, the most (if you will) authentic Mexican meals are home prepared.  For the most part, the traveler won't find them in fancy restaurants, homey comedores (small commercial dining rooms) or fondas (tiny working-class restaurants). You'll find the best meals as you stand next to the stove in a home kitchen, watching Doña Fulana prepare comida (the midday main meal of the day) for her family.  Take the time to educate your palate, understand the ingredients, taste what is offered to you, and learn, learn, learn.  You too can come to understand what traditional Mexican cooking can be. 

In order to understand the cuisines of Mexico, we need to experience their riches. Until that time, we can argue till the cows come home and you'll still be just another blind guy patting the beast's side and exclaiming how the elephant is mighty like a wall.

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Comments

[heidileon]

Cristina, me encanto este post. Coincido contigo.

xo

[we are never full]

absolutely LOVED this post. you are so right on. i do think the tex-mex hybrid has clouded most americans idea of what real mexican food is like. rick bayless here in america has done an excellent job trying to help americans really understand the mexican food culture and true regional mexican food that has nothing to do w/ a burrito or fajita.

but there is still so much to learn. which is why i love this site. and why i can not wait to one day visit the country and eat my way through it.

thank you for this post... really, thank you!

[Lesley Téllez]

Thank you for this interesting post! I really think there's a growing awareness -- or a growing desire, anyway -- among Americans to know what exactly constitutes "real" Mexican food. More and more people are realizing that Tex-Mex isn't it, and either is Cal-Mex or any of the other (albeit delicious) varieties you can get in the States.

I think for home cooks, the value we place on making true, authentic Mexican food (or really any ethnic cuisine for that matter) has evolved from even five years ago. The Internet has made it so easy to find out about new flavors and experiment with them -- in our own, distinct ways, not necessarily the authentic way. For me, even if I'm not following a traditional Mexican recipe to the letter, I'm still excited by using a new chile or an herb I may not have known about and then throwing in my own California twist.

Anyway, I applaud you for for attempting to define the genre!

[tasteofbeirut]

All i can say is the experience of eating authentic Mexican food stayed with me forever; the day I had posole at a friend's house, or chile en nogada in Lebanon made by a Mexican chef flown for the occasion, or my friend Connie's pasta with poblano pesto; it is enough to make one want to move to Mexico, which I have often dreamed of doing!