Nuestra
Señora de Dolores (Our Lady of Sorrows) leads the procession. Hooded members of various
Catholic cofradías (confraternities, or religious organizations founded in Europe in
the 15th Century) carry life-size statues on their wooden
platforms approximately three kilometers through Morelia's Centro
Histórico.
Nuestra Señora de Dolores (detail).
Drummers marked the beat of Morelia's penitential Procesión del
Silencio: Good Friday's silent procession commemorating both the
crucifixion of Christ and his Mother's grief. Only the drumbeat broke
the silence along the route.
Jesus
during la Oración en el Huerto (praying in the Garden of
Gethsemane), just prior to his arrest on Holy Thursday night. Boy
Scouts (the young man in red at the right of the photo) hold the
protective rope all along the route of the procession.
Hundreds of cofradía
members marched in the still of this Good Friday night. Foreigners,
particularly those from the United States, are often shocked by the
hoods, which to them are cultural reminders of the Ku Klux Klan. In
Mexico, there is no association between the two. The procession is
penitential and the hoods are a guarantee of anonymity and humility for
the cofradía members. They believe that humility and works of charity are best practiced anonymously.
The
majority of Morelia's Procesión del Silencio takes place after
dark, by candlelight. For the first time in 2009 and again in 2010, city street
lamps were left on due to security issues.
The
Legion of Christ carry their banner and their lamps. The Procesión
del Silencio lasts about five hours. During that time, all of
Morelia's Centro Histórico is closed to vehicular traffic.
Jesus
carries the cross a cuestas (on his back) to Calvary. More than
50,000 spectators stood along the entire route of Morelia's Procesión
del Silencio.
Candle holders are made of many materials, from crystal to styrofoam to metal.
Penitents
from one of Morelia's confraternities carry their crosses the length of
the procession. Many march barefoot through the city streets. The
procession celebrated its thirty-seventh anniversary this year.
Robed
and hooded members of another Catholic confraternity carry this
image of the Cristo del Entierro (Christ of the Burial), nailed to the cross prior to his elevation. Hoods cover the faces of those who march
as a sign of penitence.
Clothed
in gold and black, these marching penitents carry huge metal torches.
Six
men of all ages carry Cristo Muerto (the dead Christ), while six
others follow as relief when the burden of the image, the platform, the
lights, and the flowers becomes too heavy. The man at the far right of
the photo carries one of two saw horses used to support the platform
during occasional pauses in the procession.
At
the end of the Procesión del Silencio, la Virgen de la Soledad
(Our Lady of Solitude) follows the body of her crucified Son. The
platform bearing her image holds burning candles, a purple and gold
velvet canopy, and banks of fresh flowers.
Looking for a tailored-to-your-interests specialized tour in Mexico? Click here: Tours.
Many times during the year, I feel as if I live in a completely different Mexico. Easter being but one example.
Posted by: Steve Cotton | March 30, 2013 at 03:35 PM