The covered dining terraza at Los Comensales bordered the restaurant's central garden, beautifully in bloom in rain or sunshine. Indoor dining was also available, but I loved to sit on the covered terraza to hear the sweet song of birds or to listen to the rain dripping on the greenery.
In years gone by, when Mexico Cooks! was looking for a traditional old-style Morelia comida corrida (soup-to-nuts main meal of the day, usually inexpensive), I often headed to Restaurante Los Comensales, on Calle Zaragoza in the Centro Histórico. A Morelia tradition since 1980, Los Comensales (the name means 'the diners') satisfied its clients' hunger very well, and in a genteel, old-fashioned way.
A small plate of verduras en escabeche (pickled vegetables) was the first dish to arrive at our table. This little plate holds carrots, cauliflower, green beans, chayote, and onions--along with a bay leaf or two and a sprig of oregano.
The lovely terraza and dining rooms at Los Comensales were filled with memories of days gone by. Photographs of the founders--Señora Aguirre has survived her husband by many years--are scattered on the walls. He was a bullfight aficionado; she was a great home cook, specializing in the broad gamut of Michoacán comida casera (home cooking). In 19th and 20th Century Mexico, French and Spanish cuisine were the sought-after flavors when Mexicans dined out in style. Mexican cooking was considered second-class restaurant cooking at best. Nevertheless, Sra. Aguirre and her husband decided to feature typical Michoacán cuisine when they opened Los Comensales in their own home in early 1980.
One always had a choice between at least two soups of the day. The last time Mexico Cooks! enjoyed comida at Los Comensales, the choices were between caldo tlalpeño that traditionally featured tender garbanzos and a touch of chile chipotle (pictured above) and crema de zanahoria (cream of carrot). We've also loved the delicious leek, mushroom, and potato soup and the simple consomé de pollo (chicken consommé).
Los Comensales was the first private home in Morelia to be converted into a restaurant. It immediately became a great success. In 1989, the pair opened a second downtown Morelia restaurant. Las Viandas de San José (The Foods of Saint Joseph), located directly in front of Morelia's Templo San José, was in the same style as Los Comensales: the rich and varied cuisine of the couple's beloved home state, Michoacán.
This tortita de calabacita was a tremendous hit, fresh and delicious in its pool of caldillo (thin tomato sauce). We chose it from the sopas section of the comida corrida menu. Other choices were spaghetti in cream sauce or standard Mexican red rice with diced vegetables.
Mexican sopas are divided into two classes: sopa aguada (wet soup) and sopa seca (dry soup).
Sopa aguada is divided into three further categories: caldos, consomés, and cremas. Caldos are clear broths, usually with other ingredients like vegetables and meat. Consomés are similar to caldos, but may not have vegetables or meat in their ingredients. Cremas are cream soups; the different possibilities are endless.
Sopa seca includes dishes such as pastas, rice, and vegetable tortitas--like the tortitas de calabacita shown above. These are easy to prepare and absolutely delicious.
Peeling one of the Roma tomatoes to make caldillo. Don't worry, you won't burn your fingers!
Tortitas de Calabacita (Little Zucchini Fritters)
Ingredients
6 small calabacitas (or zucchini), no more than 3" long
6 1/4" thick slices mild white cheese (queso fresco or queso panela, if possible)
2 eggs, separated
Salt
Flour
Vegetable oil for frying
Slice the calabacitas in half, lengthwise. Place one slice of cheese between the slices of each calabacita. Hold the slices of calabacita and cheese together with toothpicks. Dredge each calabacita with salted flour.
Beat the egg whites until stiff. Beat the egg yolks until thick and pale lemon in color. Gently fold the yolks into the whites.
Heat oil in a frying pan until hot but not smoking.
Coat the floured calabacitas in the egg batter and fry until golden brown. Serve bathed with caldillo.
Caldillo (thin tomato sauce)
4 or 5 red-ripe Roma tomatoes
1/2 small white onion
Chicken broth, preferably home-made
Oregano, preferably Mexican
Sea salt to taste
Vegetable oil for frying the sauce.
Bring a small pot of water to a full rolling boil. Add the tomatoes (I usually cut a 1/2" cross in the stem end) and boil till the skins split--just a single minute or a few seconds more. Remove tomato peels; they'll slip off like gloves from your fingers.
Place the peeled tomatoes and the onion in a blender. Add a very small amount of chicken broth and blend until smooth.
In a frying pan, fry the sauce in a bit of vegetable oil for about five minutes. Add chicken broth until you have a very thin sauce. Add a sprig of fresh oregano and salt to taste. Cook for another five minutes and remove the oregano. Strain the sauce through a wire strainer.
Plate each serving of calabacita on a small plate and pour enough sauce over each little squash--about 1/4 cup will do.
Serves 6 as a side dish.
Carne de res en salsa chipotle (beef in a smoky chile sauce) was Mexico Cooks!' main dish. Others sharing my table ordered milanesa de pollo (thinly sliced, lightly breaded chicken breast).
Los Comensales also offered an a la carta menu, but it never really tempted me. The daily comida corrida offered such a wide variety of dishes that I always chose my meal from that menu.
Our dessert, Flan napolitano (Naples-style custard with caramel), is firmer than its ordinary cousin. Flan napolitano is made with cream cheese, in addition to the usual milk and eggs.
The last time Mexico Cooks! dined at Los Comensales, my comida corrida was exactly what's pictured here. The total cost for me and my two companions was $300 pesos; each comida corrida was $60 pesos, plus the addition to our order of a large jarra (pitcher) of naranjada (orangeade, made with freshly squeezed orange juice and sparkling water). A tip was included in the cost of the meal.
Señora Catalina Aguirre Camacho, the owner of Los Comensales since 1980. Because of her advanced age, she closed the restaurant in 2010, and passed away shortly thereafter. She has gone to heaven to cook for God's angelitos.
Los Comensales was open for desayuno (breakfast) and comida every day except Wednesday. I think of the restaurant so often, and miss it very much now that I am once again at home in Morelia. Restaurants of this sort have all but disappeared in Mexico.
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